Video: Frankie Hejduk Testifies to the Benefits of Surfing

Maybe I'll quit bullsh*tting this summer and start surfing. I live at the beach so loads of my good friends and neighbors are all about it and I've paddled out a few times. But I always shy away from any real commitment to it because once anyone I know starts surfing they start being "a surfer". They start using surf lingo and having surf convos that always seem to involve a trip to Australia or a really cool surf camp in Costa Rica. New tattoos are acquired. Flip flops become the footwear of choice. Consuming fish tacos becomes tantamount to sex and spending time in "the green room". And they start dressing in "surfwear".

Basically I have a fear that if I enjoy surfing on the reg, that it will consume my personality and that I won't be me anymore but instead a walking stereotype. But if it will keep me as fit as Hey Dude maybe it would be worth it; it probably won't get me called into camp by Bob Bradley but maybe my missus won't shudder at the site of my gut.

1 comment:

b00zenyc said...

Haha, nice post. Hate the crew, but have to give props to Frankie when it's due, gotta love the waves. At the beach too, southern LI. ESC bbq in the LBC this summer, East side. Maybe get the chef to man the grill & hook up some Wahoo tacos ;) Easy.